Sambalpuri sarees are woven using a resist-dyeing technique called ikat (locally called ‘bandha’), where the yarn is tie-dyed in a precise pattern before it’s ever put on the loom. Because both the warp and weft threads are individually dyed to match the intended design — a technique known as double ikat — the pattern seems to float on the fabric rather than sit on top of it.
Each saree can take anywhere from a week to over a month to weave, depending on the complexity of the pattern. The result is a fabric with a distinctive, slightly blurred geometric motif that’s instantly recognisable — and impossible to replicate by machine.